Grappling

‘He’d do anything for you, wouldn’t he?’ she said, and I supposed it was true. You’d do anything for anyone, I thought. I tried not to take advantage of your helpfulness, but you never seemed to mind. You’d water my plants (including the imitation ones); you’d take in my mail and empty my buckets when …

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The Missing Section

This time, I had to plan carefully. I wanted it to be perfect: clear skies, preferably with some sunshine – to make everything look prettier – but not too hot for sweating up the hills, and requiring twice as much water to carry. My bag needed to be a lot lighter, too. Then there was …

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Grassington to Ilkley, the Finale

Day 6: Saturday, July 27th ‘That’ll be a long last day,’ Helen insisted, when I told her I’d be coming from Grassington, instead of the usual Burnsall or Appletreewick. ‘You’ll be tired.’ I hadn’t appreciated, then, that I’d be tired every day, and that the extra three miles would, indeed, make a mountain of difference. …

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Hubberholme to Grassington

Day 5: Friday July 26th The five Germans at breakfast were going all the way to Cowgill. Admittedly, they would save one and a half miles by not staying at the Station Inn in Ribblehead, but that’s still an extra two miles or more than I had been intending to do. Everyone I encountered during …

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Sedburgh to Ribblehead

Day 3: Wednesday, July 24th 2024 Finding affordable single accommodation along the Dales Way was a significant challenge, and one I had to rise to well in advance. Gone are the days, sadly, when one could study the weather, pack a bag and hasten out the door at the last minute, stopping when tired and …

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Burneside to Sedbergh

Day 2: Tuesday, July 23rd 2024 Today, I’d been told, was the toughest day. But that’s if it’s your penultimate, I kept telling myself. It’s only my second. I’d be full of energy and determination. I didn’t sleep too well. Consciously or not, I was concerned about my clearly absent way-finding skills, and adding miles …

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Somewhere New

It’s wild how you can walk off a breezy beach into the cold waves and think, this is quite nice! Then when you accidentally squirt cold water over yourself while showering afterwards, you shriek as if you’ve fallen overboard in Antarctica wearing a negligée. I’ve just braved the sea at Freshwater East, Pembrokeshire, earlier in …

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Craving Humble

Long before exiting the arrival hall; before we’ve landed and, perhaps, before we’ve even taken off, my mind is on one thing only. Not, this time (as it’s mid-summer), how cold I’m going to be on the train, but on my one overwhelming, all-encompassing desire: to attack, in the manner of a starving wolf, all …

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Hopelessly undevoted

Savai’i island: the quieter, considerably larger of the two main landmasses that make up Samoa. The place one heads to for some peaceful, undisturbed beach time in simple huts or fales (traditional, open-sided shelters with, or without, palm frond screens) right on the sand, or in some cases, over the water. The kind of place …

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Paint me a forest

The brief sounded reasonable enough: Pete, who approached me via a volunteering portal, was seeking someone to paint a fence in his garden. It was rather a large fence, long and relatively low, which he’d erected when his neighbour had chopped down some trees, eliminating at once his privacy, shade and aesthetics. Somehow, these things …

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